Chanel’s diamond roar

"Sous le Signe du Lion" is Chanel’s latest offering of one-off high jewellery pieces which looks to the whims and quirks of Gabrielle Chanel herself.

Sous le Signe du Lion, Chanel’s latest offering of one-off pieces of highly valuable jewellery, once again looks to the whims and quirks of Gabrielle Chanel herself.
As you may have guessed from the name of the collection, Gabrielle was a Leo and she was also very superstitious. And apparently, in 1920 when visiting Venice for the first time, she was taken with the proliferation of lions that peer out from door knockers, buildings, public monuments and of course the flag of St Mark, patron saint of La Serenissima, whose symbol is a lion.

Chanel’s first visit to Venice was when she was recovering from the death of her lover, Boy Capel. In her sombre mood she was taken by the richness of Byzantine art and in particular the sumptuously bejewelled golden Palo d’Oro altar piece in St Mark’s and the golden tiles and mosaics of the basilica.
Venice and all its lions must have made an impression, as a visit to her apartment atop the workshops of the 31 Rue Cambon premises in Paris reveals a cosy cocoon brimming with curios and mementos and lots of lions. Brass lions, big and small, but always in pairs, are dotted on almost every surface of her top floor retreat. And we also see them on details of her couture creations: on the buttons of her suits, as handbag clasps and brooches.
Though Chanel herself only designed one major collection of diamond jewellery in 1932 – most of it dismounted – she loved jewellery. And so, the current captains of the house of Chanel, have decided to embrace her passion.
And this Lion collection makes an entrance with an almighty roar. There is nothing timid or half-hearted about these jewels celebrating the power and majesty of the king of the jungle. The pieces are big and have a swagger to them that hasn't been felt in the world of jewellery since the 1970’s. 
The 58 jewels are made for strutting with medallion-style necklaces, ropes of coloured pearls and out sized brooches. Carved from rock crystal, a lion stands proudly on a comet that flies above a yellow diamond in a dramatic necklace that would certainly get you noticed. Rampant, pouncing, leaping and roaring the lion adorns cuff bracelets, rings and even snarls protectively, a diamond under its claws.
The collection also includes the first jewel to be produced in Chanel's own high jewellery workshops, which opened last year. The “Lion Royal” in platinum, white gold and diamonds is the star creation. This transformable necklace is entirely set with diamonds, while a handy system of clips means it can be worn as a long or short necklace and the central lion's head can also be detached and worn as a brooch. The perfect present for the Leo in your life.